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Bag in Box Wine Category: “Red Hot” as Small- and Medium-Sized Producers Come on Board

By
Pam Strayer, Contributing Writer
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Though it’s still a niche category, boxed wine from established, artisanal, boutique wineries like Tablas Creek or entrepreneurial boxed wine-only startups is hitting the market (photo courtesy Tablas Creek Vineyard.)

Move over big-brand boxed wines, there’s a new kid on the shelf. And it appears to be the higher-priced spread. Though it’s still a niche category, boxed wine from established, artisanal, boutique wineries (think Bedrock, Ryme Cellars and Tablas Creek) or entrepreneurial boxed wine-only startups (Juliet and Really Good Boxed Wine) is hitting the market. Though their sales are small (up to 10,000 cases for one of the startups), there’s growing consumer excitement in ditching the glass bottle yet still drinking more upscale wine. 

During the pandemic, big-brand boxed wine sales grew quickly, with volume sales increasing 30% between 2018 and 2023. Consumers like its convenience. They can drink a glass or two at a time and never feel guilty when the rest of a glass bottle of wine goes bad. Boxed wine not only weighs less, reducing shipping costs, but compared to a glass bottle of wine, the carbon emissions are 84% less, experts say.

Better-quality boxed wine has been very widely accepted in Europe. French authorities report 44% of French wine is sold in boxes. Swedish wine drinkers drink more boxed than bottled wine.

In the U.S., it’s legal to take boxed wine to parks and pools where alcohol is permitted but glass is prohibited.

Boxed wine not only weighs less, reducing shipping costs, but compared to a glass bottle of wine, the carbon emissions are 84% less, experts say (photo courtesy Juliet.)

Co-Packers’ Bag Filling Operations Scale Down to Lower Minimums
For small to medium wineries in the U.S., boxed wine production is fanning out into more tiers of wine production.

In the early days, artisanal entrants like Bedrock, Rhyme Cellars, Tablas Creek and Winery Sixteen 600 spent days hand-filling plastic bags in their first boxed wine releases. Now, producers are migrating to Napa-based co-packers who have automated or semi-automated bag filling lines. Those facilities now will do boxed wine runs with minimums starting at around 1,200 cases. One producer is even doing a run of 600 cases.

“We’re seeing twice as many customers in terms of the number of clients.” said Max Franks of Sonoma Bespoke Services, which despite its name is now located in Napa. “It’s red hot.”

Entrepreneurs Launching New Boxed Wine-Only Brands
Leading the pack in the race to catch the better boxed wine wave at scale are two boxed wine-only entrepreneurial companies: Juliet, focused on female wine lovers looking for a bit of luxury, and Really Good Boxed Wines, which offers vineyard or sub-appellation designated wines for lower prices than equivalent wine in glass bottles.

Juliet’s tag line is “Boxed Wine Reimagined,” and it puts a little bit of a luxury spin on its wines, partnering with MGM resorts who feature it poolside. Started by two New York City friends, Juliet sells 1.5-litre boxed wine ($35) made by a partner in Santa Barbara County.

The brand’s hook? The packaging. The bags are housed inside cylindrical cardboard cases, festooned with Mediterranean imagery, and a little rope carry handle. The shape was inspired by liquor gift boxes that co-founder Allison Luvera was familiar with when she managed luxury spirits brands for Pernod Ricard.

The box also features a handy way to keep wine cool: a space inside the box to put ice or freezable pouches. Luvera says this feature was designed to keep white or rosé wines chilled poolside or on the go at soccer games and other outdoor events.

Really Good Boxed Wine is another new entrant in the boxed wine-only category. It’s betting on single-vineyard or sub-appellated wines to differentiate and anchor the brand. Founded by Jake Whitman, an investor with a history in managing consumer brands at Proctor & Gamble, and Amy Troutman, a wine industry veteran consultant, it’s the only boxed wine committed to single-vineyard or sub-appellated wines.

Both brands are finding online consumers are not only receptive but enthusiastically embracing boxed wines for convenience and quality. Both companies report repeat business is strong. According to Troutmiller, almost 40% of Really Good Boxed Wine’s online customers reorder wines.

Blueprint of broken-down boxed wine design used by Field Recordings Wine out of Pasa Robles (photo courtesy Field Recordings.)

How Small- and Medium-Sized Wineries Can Get into Boxed Wine
Wineries can now opt to package their current wines in bag in box format using a co-packer who takes care of the bag filling aspect and keeps the wine sound in the process. Automated systems like the one at Sonoma Bespoke Beverages produce the highest quality but have restrictions on nonconforming box shapes. Alternatively, Infinity Bottling in Napa with semi-automated filling can accommodate irregular box shapes. Both have been highly recommended by clients, including Field Recordings (for Bespoke) and Tablas Creek (for Infinity).

While ready-to-drink beverages like agave margaritas get the lion’s share of private labels, for instance, there’s room for a lot more variation in the marketplace, experts say. “We’re seeing a lot more premium wine going into bag in box,” Franks said. “Some are in the $60 to $80 range.”

Producers are migrating to Napa-based co-packers who have automated or semi-automated bag filling lines. Those facilities now will do boxed wine runs with minimums starting at around 1,200 cases (photo courtesy Smith Devereux Winery.)

Andrew Jones at Field Recordings sells his orange wine, Skins, under his Boxie label and is increasing production to 4,000 cases this year. That’s 60% more this year than last year. He recommends a minimum commitment of 1,200 cases for a start.

Box design is another part of creating a boxed-wine brand. The box gives brands lots of space to communicate the brand’s messages, tout boxed wine’s advantages and educate consumers on why boxed wine is better.

Sustainable Stories Series: Uncorking Innovation Modern Tools Drive Success

By
WHITNEY BROWNIE | Vineyard Team
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Talley Vineyards CEO Brian Talley’s focus has shifted over the years toward a Direct-to-Consumer approach that uses data management and analysis to optimize marketing communications.

The past 30 years have seen incredible developments in technology and communication. It has never been easier to create, share and implement innovative ideas thanks to the interconnectedness of people and industries across the globe.

Innovation is more than a buzzword; it’s a strategic principal companies use to exceed the status-quo. These businesses seek inspiration from various sources, including the latest research and technology, their own data and industry peers. Successful businesses are willing to adapt their practices to meet changing needs.

As consumer preferences and market demands evolve rapidly, businesses must follow suit to stay competitive. Failure to do so brings risk of obsolescence while others in the industry embrace new technology and strategies, allowing them to stay relevant and able to deliver on higher expectations. In fact, companies that actively promote a culture of innovation are 3.5 times more likely to outperform their peers (McKinsey 2022).

Companies that embrace evolution have greater potential to streamline operations and enhance customer experiences. Their willingness and ability to question if current practices are optimal are crucial for sustained growth and relevance.

Part of being a sustainably minded business means adapting to change. In the field and across their teams, Talley Vineyards in Arroyo Grande, Calif. thrives on adaptation and innovation.

Talley Vineyards CEO Brian Talley implements a less-is-more winemaking philosophy as a component of being a sustainably minded business (all photos courtesy Talley Vineyards.)

Technology in Agronomy
As a component of Talley Vineyards’ less-is-more winemaking philosophy, they use native yeasts for fermentation. A healthy environment is crucial for yeasts to thrive, and Talley’s minimal-intervention approach in the vineyard ensures their wine can exemplify the unique attributes of the land and the season.

But each growing season brings different challenges. If tasks aren’t timed properly, extra labor and chemical inputs are needed to combat diseases and remedy damages. Brian Talley, CEO of Talley Vineyards, learned getting behind in the vineyard can necessitate additional movement and intervention that hinders the delicate dance of ecological activity on which the yeasts depend.

Some of these challenges arise during wet cool-spring years with lower temperatures and reduced solar intensity. Dense canopies shield berries from sufficient light penetration, compromising development and ripening. Furthermore, mildew pressure increases in these conditions, and a lack of adequate airflow puts leaves and berries at risk.

Vineyard stewards must time cultural practices appropriately to ensure light and air move through the vines before damage sets in. Talley Vineyards represents 129 acres, with a large portion of the vines planted on hills. For a vineyard crew of 17, it isn’t practical to rely solely on human hands to care for the vines during critical times like these.

A few years ago, Talley Vineyards invested in a leafing machine to increase efficiency in this weighty task. The machine covers many acres in a short amount of time and quickly removes excess foliage. While effective for some blocks, the attention of skilled hands is required for others.

Their tenured crew is familiar with each block’s unique characteristics. With the machine, they can tailor their methods to fit each block’s needs; some are only mechanized, others are strictly cared for by hand, and a portion receives both methods.

Because they understand each year is unique, Talley Vineyards adapted their growing practices. The leafing machine helps the crew maintain a healthy environment during the cool spring years that are conducive to both yeast preservation and disease mitigation.

Eric Johnson, director of viticulture and winemaking operations, participates with Talley Vineyard employees in winemaker field trips to sample creations and share insights. He said one such trip inspired the team to experiment with varying press-off intervals for their red wines.

Innovation in Communication
The service industry is no stranger to digital data management. Reservations, sales and customer interactions are common metrics to keep on record for planning and development. But in recent years, the sophistication of technology has boomed, and so has the potential of the data collected.

Oftentimes, this data sits in an archive. It’s an untapped resource for insights into customer preferences and behaviors. With investigation, analysis and collaboration, businesses can use this data to better understand and better serve their loyal fan base.

While Talley started his career as a grower, his responsibilities have shifted over the years. Today, he focuses his time in the space of Direct-to-Consumer sales and engagement. In 2019, he realized he hadn’t fully explored his bank of data as a resource to inform marketing decisions. He decided to seek help from an experienced professional.

After he enlisted a marketing director who pointed out ways to optimize their marketing communications based on trends in their data, Talley was inspired to devote more resources to build out their digital data operation. Now, Talley Vineyards utilizes a third-party program that puts key metrics into daily dashboards for the team to review. His team compares metrics to previous years and brainstorms ways to adapt their processes.

“Data management and analysis is more important than ever,” Talley said. “In the last few years, it’s been a key thing we focus on.”

Eric Johnson, director of viticulture and winemaking operations, appreciates how their marketing has evolved to fit the needs and preferences of their customers. He emphasized the importance of tailoring content to be compatible with people who show interest.

“It would be pointless to market to my grandma; she doesn’t drink, and doesn’t care about wine… If you take a mass approach to marketing, you’re going to miss,” he said.

To put informed marketing efforts into practice, Johnson recommended companies first dive into their data and see what patterns emerge. Then, ask, “Where does it make more sense to target?” Next, tailor content to communicate the preferences desired by each target audience. And finally, let it run and analyze the new data to see if effectiveness has changed.

When companies understand their audience, they are in a better position to address issues and retain valued customers. Through their data-driven insights, Talley Vineyards constantly receives feedback from their efforts and responds with informed content crafting.

Talley Vineyards in Arroyo Grande, Calif. represents 129 acres, with a large portion of the vines planted on hills. The vineyard has implemented operational efficiency measures like the use of a leafing machine so cultural practices are still timed properly on the large area of land.

Inspiration from Collaboration
Face-to-face experiences with other members of the industry offer professionals valuable opportunities to share ideas, brainstorm creative solutions and develop novel practices.

Members of Talley Vineyards’ Direct-to-Consumer team and staff leads go on tasting room field trips. While also being team-building activities, the trips inspire the group to learn from other successful brands and bring home ideas for innovation.

“Two examples of takeaways from previous trips are the prominent soils display in the main tasting room, which was inspired by a visit to a prominent Napa Valley winery in the early 2000s, as well as a complimentary splash of wine for every visitor [of age] the moment they set foot onto our property,” said Talley. “The soils display reinforces our core commitment to our sense of place, while the splash of wine sets the tone for friendly and welcoming hospitality.”

Field trips aren’t limited to this group. Before harvest sets in, Talley’s cellar crew likes to visit winemakers in other regions to sample each other’s creations and share insights. One of these collaborative experiences helped Talley Vineyards perfect their press-off intervals.

After returning from a winemaker’s field trip, Johnson and his team were inspired to experiment with varying press-off intervals for their red wines. They ran batches with varying intervals from 10 days up to 45 days. Their trials revealed 30 days led to the best result. Since then, they have transitioned their Syrah and Grenache vinification to that sweet spot.

Research from Harvard Business School found that “companies that are more central [in their relevant communities] have a bigger impact; the innovation they produce is more successful in the marketplace,” (Harvard Business School 2023). Teams who network with industry peers can stay ahead of trends and preferences, learn new strategies to optimize performance and bring back exciting new ideas to experiment with.

Dedication to Innovation

Talley Vineyards remains a top brand in the industry not only for their award-winning wines but because they constantly work toward efficiency and relevance. Their techniques enable them to stay aware of important industry developments and sustain their success.

While wine operations can benefit immensely from change and development, the same can’t be said for native wildlife that inhabit the vineyard. In the next Sustainable Story, learn about an estate winery in Santa Margarita, Calif. that invests in the wellbeing of their furry and feathered friends and offers human guests the opportunity to explore their rugged terrain.

Wildfire Smoke Research Progress for the Wine Industry

By
Natalie Collins | President, California Association of Winegrape Growers
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Charred trees from a recent Sonoma County wildfire. Research on the impacts of wildfire smoke has been a top priority for the west coast wine industry since 2018 (all photos courtesy California Association of Winegrape Growers.)

In early June, the West Coast Smoke Exposure Task Force (WCSETF) hosted its fourth annual Smoke Summit to discuss the latest findings and advancements as they relate to the impacts of wildfire smoke on the wine industry and to share updates on crop insurance coverage options and Task Force priorities.

Research on the impacts of wildfire smoke has been a top priority for the west coast wine industry since 2018. In each of the past five fiscal years, Congress has funded wildfire smoke research through USDA-ARS and in partnership with key researchers at land grant universities in California, Oregon and Washington. While a lot of progress has been made, there is still a lot of work to be done in terms of research, which is why advocating for this funding continues to be a top priority.

The annual summit featured presentations from leading researchers Cole Cerrato from Oregon State University, Tom Collins from Washington State University, Anita Oberholster from UC Davis and Arran Rumbaugh from USDA-ARS. The research presented included a wide range of topics, such as sensor networks, sensory analysis, risk modeling, barrier spray strategies and best practices for sampling and testing for smoke exposure.

UC Davis barrier spray trials. Barrier sprays, which aim to protect grapes from absorbing volatile phenols, were a topic of interest covered at the recent Smoke Summit.

Rumbaugh kicked off the research discussion reviewing the controlled smoke chamber studies she’s been conducting to analyze grape sensory attributes and chemical composition after differing levels of smoke exposure. Cerrato reported on Oregon State’s investigation into thiophenols’ recognition thresholds for ashy flavors in impacted wine. His lab, along with Collins’, is developing sensitive, replicable methods for measuring these compounds. Collins detailed progress from the USDA-SCRI smoke exposure research grant, which involves 17 researchers across various institutions, including WSU, OSU and UC Davis. The grant, now in its third year, focuses on four key elements:

• Developing low-cost air quality monitoring networks and models that assess the risk to grape and wine quality based on smoke plume characteristics.

• Understanding smoke impacts on grapevine health and developing tools and strategies to support growers in making timely decisions.

• Measuring free and bound smoke compounds in grapes and wine to assess exposure risk.

• Evaluating the effectiveness of mitigation actions to manage smoke exposure risk.

Anita Oberholster provided insights into dealing with smoke and ash in vineyards and shared the latest findings with barrier sprays to protect grapes from absorbing volatile phenols. Oberholster also emphasized the importance of thorough sampling and provided best practices for collecting and storing samples.

While significant progress has been made in wildfire smoke research, there is still a lot to learn. Next steps include defining standardized sampling methods and thresholds for smoke exposure compounds tailored to various regions, varietals, fuel types, production stages, management or mitigation efforts, processing and storage situations.

To spearhead some of these these efforts, funding is being allocated for a new research chemist through ARS who will be dedicated to improving industry risk management. Continued collaboration with university partners, USDA Climate Hubs, USDA Forest Service, state and local agencies, international collaborators and industry will enhance the monitoring, modeling, prediction and quantification of smoke taint risks.

New County-Based Smoke Index Coverage
The summit also featured Jeff Yasui, director of the Risk Management Agency (RMA) Regional Office in Davis, who announced the approval of a new endorsement to better protect winegrape growers against the losses from smoke exposure. This new endorsement is called the Fire Insurance Protection Smoke Index (FIP-SI) and was developed through industry listening sessions and feedback. The policy works in conjunction with a grower’s existing Multiperil Crop Insurance (MPCI) policy and is an area plan coverage option, meaning losses are assessed based on an area and not the policyholder specifically. The FIP-SI policy utilizes data from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) to assess “smoke days” within a county. An indemnity will be automatically paid when the number of smoke days within the county surpasses the insured requirements.

The California Association of Winegrape Growers (CAWG) will be hosting an educational webinar in November to discuss the new endorsement in detail and answer any questions.

Another important update shared during the summit was the expansion of the Grapevine Policy, which was rolled out in 2024 and only made available to six counties in California. RMA has expanded the grapevine policy, and in 2025, it will be offered in 35 California counties.

The grapevine policy covers vine mortality due to fire, freeze, hail, flood and failure of irrigation supply due to naturally occurring events. This is a dollar plan, meaning the policy covers a percentage of the vineyard’s value. Values and coverage are based off the age of the vine, the variety and the location. The catastrophic coverage option is available, so vineyard owners can purchase coverage for a very minimal fee. This vine policy is purchased in addition to the MPCI policy that covers a grower’s grapes.

The annual summit wrapped up with the exciting announcement that WCSETF is working on launching a dedicated website to host all things smoke exposure for the industry. This will include research, best practices and guideline documents, videos on conducting micro-ferments, crop insurance information and more. A full recording of the summit will also be available for viewing on the site. The website is expected to launch in early August.

Natalie Collins, president of CAWG, is also co-chair of WCSETF.

For the past 50 years, CAWG has championed the interests of California’s winegrape growers. CAWG plays a pivotal role in shaping the regulatory and legislative landscape to support sustainable farming practices, fair market conditions and the economic vitality of California’s winegrape industry. By fostering collaboration and innovation, CAWG strives to ensure the continued success and global competitiveness of California’s winegrape growers.

Established in 2019, WCSETF was specifically formed to address the impact of smoke exposure on vineyards and wineries located along the West Coast. Today, the task force is comprised of leadership from the following West Coast organizations: CAWG, Allied Grape Growers, Wine Institute, Family Winemakers of California, Oregon Wine Board, Oregon Wine Council, Oregon Winegrowers Association, Washington State Wine Commission, Washington Winegrowers Association and Alisa Jacobson of Turning Tide Wines, who heads the task forces research committee.

Winegrape Harvest Prep isn’t Just Seasonal

By
Cecilia Parsons | Associate Editor
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Harvest preparation begins with canopy management, one method being dappled light. Dappled light is leaving guard leaves and removing the leaves surrounding the clusters inside the vines (photo courtesy Emeritus Vineyards.)

Harvest preparation in winegrape production begins long before the machines or picking crews pull into the vineyard.

Carefully monitoring the maturation of different winegrape varieties in different climates, irrigating to meet plant needs and scouting for insect pests and diseases take place throughout the growing season. Crop managers note different winegrape varieties and changing environmental conditions are major factors in fruit maturity and harvest timing.

Microclimates and soils can drastically impact the rate of fruit ripening and at what level when ready for harvest, Riggs Lokka, vineyard manager for Emeritus Vineyards in Sebastopol, said. Hot daytime temperatures and whether there is significant cooling in the evenings affect the fruit maturation process. In addition, soil type can have an impact. Lokka said winegrapes planted on heavier soils tend to ripen earlier than those in sandy soils.

Irrigation strategies prior to harvest differ among many varieties. Some winegrape varieties are slightly water stressed until veraison, then given full ET. Water is cut 10 to 14 days leading up to expected harvest date (photo by R. Lokka.)

Craig Ledbetter with Vino Farms in the Lodi area said in early July he expected the heat wave being experienced across California winegrape growing areas would influence the berry maturation process and harvest timing. Berry color changes (signs of veraison) were beginning to appear in some winegrape varieties in early July, which means harvest there is 35 to 45 days out. Berry maturity slows during a heat wave as leaves shut down at high temperatures, and insect pests could also play a part in maturity as mite infestations can damage leaves, slowing the ripening process. He estimated the earliest varieties in the Lodi area would be ready for harvest five to seven days ahead of the normal harvest timing.

Paso Robles experienced very hot temperatures during early July, but some of those locations also cool off at night. Carter Collins, general manager of Viticulture Management Inc. in Paso Robles, said the nighttime cooling allows vines to recover from the heat. Looking at the average start time for harvest with the earliest varieties, he said the vineyards are ahead of last year, which was on the late side but still behind 2022’s early start.

“Mother Nature drives when the harvest begins, but canopy management and crop load play a part,” Collins said. In the Paso Robles winegrape growing area, in preparation for harvest, leafing is done before the end of June, and before veraison begins.

Nearly all Lodi-area winegrape vineyards are harvested mechanically, said Craig Ledbetter of Vino Farms. Worker shortages continue to drive the mechanical harvest choice (photo courtesy C. Ledbetter.)

Preparation Considerations
Harvest preparation begins with canopy management. Lokka said once bloom is complete, his crews will begin leafing vines. Depending on location, they have two methods: dappled light and full removal from the morning side based on the trellising system. Dappled light is leaving guard leaves and removing the leaves surrounding the clusters inside the vines. Full-on removal from the morning side involves removing all leaves six inches above the cordon arm on the morning side only. Once leafing is complete, he said crop estimation and bunch thinning can begin.

Lokka said at Emeritus, they also scout vineyards for Botrytis and mildew throughout the growing season. There is a spray routine in preventing disease outbreaks, and problem areas receive immediate attention, he noted.

In the Lodi area, Ledbetter said actual harvest prep begins with shoot thinning, leaf removal and suckering, common practices leading up to harvest depending on the grape variety. He noted early leaf removal is done in the Lodi area to acclimate the berries to sunlight, reducing the chances of sunburn on ripening fruit.

Last year’s cooler June temperatures did not help acclimate the berries to hotter July temperatures, he said, and more sunburn occurred when hotter temperatures arrived later in the season.

Water management is an important consideration leading up to harvest, Ledbetter said. Irrigation strategies prior to harvest differ among many varieties. Some winegrape varieties are slightly water stressed until veraison, then given full ET. Water is cut 10 to 14 days leading up to expected harvest date. Other winegrape varieties produce larger berries that will split skins if overwatered between veraison and harvest. Once split, the berries are prone to rot. These varieties are deficit irrigated throughout the entire season.

Collins said just enough irrigation is done to “keep the vines happy” and not stressed.

Emeritus vineyards are dry farmed.

Testing for sugar levels or brix in the fruit begins in early to mid-August for Collins. Depending on the variety and the brix/acidity levels desired for winemaking, the testing will determine when harvest begins. Vineyards in the Paso Robles region have diverse growing conditions, and the cooling and heating make a difference in fruit maturity. Testing begins with the earlier varieties depending on the location. Once testing begins, he said he will test twice a week to gauge the maturity progress.

Depending on how vineyard floors are managed, when a harvest date is determined for a variety, there can be mowing or tillage to clear out weeds. Canes with leaves may also be trimmed to lessen the amount of leaves that end up in the harvest loads. In Lodi, Ledbetter said final sprays will be completed in late June or July, noting that area is one of the first to begin harvesting winegrapes.

Hand-harvest crews work at night, and lighting and other safety measures must be in place (photo by R. Lokka.)

Nearly all Lodi-area winegrape vineyards are harvested mechanically, Ledbetter said. Worker shortages continue to drive the mechanical harvest choice. While most of the Paso Robles-area vineyards are machine-harvested, Collins said about 20% to 25% of the acres are hand-harvested. Hand-harvest crews work at night, he said, and lighting and other safety measures must be in place. Emeritus’ pinot noir grapes are all hand-harvested, also during the night.

In addition to watching readiness of the fruit for harvest, Collins said all the harvest equipment needs to be ready.

“We inspect harvest machinery and make sure all are in good working order; we don’t want breakdowns just when we need to be moving,” Collins said.

“I believe each vineyard has a way of expressing readiness for harvest, and each manager has a practical method to harvest a quality crop,” Lokka said.

Getting Started with Dry Farming: Improved Resilience, Better Wine Quality and Water Savings Prove Attractive Benefits in Napa Project

By
Pam Strayer | Contributing Writer
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Tod Mostero of Dominus Estate in Napa shows an irrigated vine (left) compared to a dry-farmed vine (right) (photo courtesy T. Mostero.)

For three years in the early 2020s, drought reduced yields for the wine industry, with decreases ranging from 10% to 30% in some cases. Some wondered if dry farming could be an alternative.

That was the case at Pine Ridge Vineyards in Napa where the team was embarking on a replant. Like many who had never dry farmed before, they wondered how to set up their vines for dry farming success.

“Why we are going into dry farming is because we all are seeing the weather change,” said Gustavo Avina, viticulture director at Pine Ridge Vineyards, at a recent Napa Green educational session on dry farming. “There is more limitation on water than ever,” he said. “We’ve gotten a lot of water and rain [recently], but who knows what will happen in two or three years.”

Now, after two years of replanting a new vineyard for dry farming and seeing dramatically increased root depth, Avina said, “I think preparing a new vineyard for dry farming is the best way to go.”

Avina and Pine Ridge Vineyards Estate Winemaker Josh Widaman connected with dry farming expert Tod Mostero, director of viticulture and winemaking at Dominus Estate in Napa, under Napa Green’s mentorship program. Mostero has been dry farming the Dominus site in Napa’s Yountville appellation for 17 years.

Said Mostero, “When a vine is deeply connected to a place, it converts the energy of the sun to sugar that feeds microorganisms deep within the soil, creating an extraordinarily stable system. This buffers it from extremes and allows for consistent wine production each year.”

Terroir Payoff
Working in a high-end Napa estate headed by a famous French vintner, Mostero also made the case for dry farmed wines as the true expression of terroir.

“I love wine that resonates with balance, connecting you to everything and leaving you breathless,” said Mostero, who works for world-class Bordeaux and Napa vintner Christian Moueix. New release wines from Dominus sell for more than $300.

Dry farming is key, he said, driving roots deep into the soil where they can find minerals, nutrients and moisture.

Widaman said dry farming offered the potential to weather ups and downs.

“I think in a young winegrowing region such as ourselves, where we’ve only been around realistically on the world map for about 50 years,” he said, “we’re just now starting to think… [about] providing a vineyard that has the kind of resiliency and durability that… we need in our watershed as well. But a vineyard that provides the style of wine, that has that tension, that interest, that depth, is what we need to continue to create wines that are in the world pantheon.”

Site, Soils and Drainage
Mostero described a common soil and landscape situation in Napa Valley vineyards ranging from sloping sites with well-draining soils to heavy clays in valley bottoms.

“Many classic Napa vineyards were dry farmed and planted on alluvial fans because of well-draining soil over impervious clay layers. Winter rainwater stored in the mountains percolates through, hits the clay and flows under the vineyard as springs, providing the vineyard with water throughout the dry summer months.”

“Alluvial fans have gravelly soils on the upper benchlands, transitioning to heavier clay toward the valley center. I’ve seen examples of dry farming in all those soil types,” he said.

The site Pine Ridge selected was a 24-acre, no-till property that Avina described as the warmest site the team farms.

Different soil types affect dry farming, Mostero said.

“In gravelly soils, water drains early in the spring, and vines adapt by producing less vegetation. Heavier clay soils retain more water in spring, leading to more vegetation and increased water consumption. These soils dry out quickly in summer, making dry farming more challenging,” he said.

Strength, thickness and vertical orientation of the roots of dry farmed vines at Pine Ridge Vineyards in Napa after one year of growth, revealing thick, deep roots plunging vertically to depths of 2.5 to 3 feet. Dominus Estate’s Tod Mostero said the roots are likely extending even deeper within the first 12 months since planting (photo courtesy Pine Ridge Vineards.)

Year One: Hole Preparation and Limited Watering
Preparation is critical. 

“What happens when you dry farm,” said Mostero, “is you condition your roots to grow deeply into the ground and explore more space.”

“The first thing for me to do before we plant the vine is to prepare the ground well enough, breaking the hard pan below the surface,” said Avina. “So that would help the roots to grow deeper. After you prepare your vineyard and you are planting the vine, I want to make sure my guys dig the holes deep enough that they can bury the entire vine.

“We make a mistake when we just make the hole big enough where the vine can fit in there… Below the roots, there is hard pan. If you make a hole wide enough and deep enough, that will help the roots to grow deeper as what we did in there.”

The vines were irrigated heavily, with 10 to 12 gallons, but only four times in the year, Avina said.

Said Mostero, “In the first couple of years of vine establishment, we irrigate infrequently but deeply. This encourages deep root growth as the surface soil dries out between irrigations, preventing horizontal root growth. This is fundamental in the first couple years.”

Avina said they used spaghetti emitters in year one but removed them after year one, using only emitters at the site of the vine in year two.

After one year, it was time to see if the vines needed more water to get established. Out came the shovels.

Avina estimated the vines might be six inches deep.

The team, including Mostero, was surprised to see roots reaching a depth of two to three feet.

Mostero stressed there is no one formula. Digging into the soil to see the actual root development is the only way to assess the impacts of dry farming on root development.

“In mid-summer, when everything was dry, we found moisture and thick roots plunging deep. Even experienced viticulturists are surprised by this. It reminds us that sometimes the simplest tools like a shovel are the best,” he said.

“Many classic Napa vineyards were dry farmed and planted on alluvial fans because of well-draining soil over impervious clay layers,” according to Dominus Estate’s Tod Mostero. “Winter rainwater stored in the mountains percolates through, hits the clay and flows under the vineyard as springs, providing the vineyard with water throughout the dry summer months.” (graphic by T. Mostero.)

Year Two: Cutting Superficial Roots
In year two, Mostero recommended clipping the upper portion of the roots, a technique that was new to the team. By eliminating the superficial roots, the plant went deeper into the ground.

Initially costs were a concern, Widaman said, but technology provided help.

“I think a big worry for us because we’re part of a publicly traded company is always cost, and from a business case, how we would justify that labor,” Widaman said. “But in the end, the added people hours that it took to do that work wasn’t as significant as we were originally worried about.”

The team used an old French plow to help cut the superficial vines, reducing labor costs, Avina said.

Trimming superficial roots in year 2 allows the plant to go deeper into the ground (photo courtesy T. Mostero.)

Next Steps
Convinced by their two years of positive experiences in dry farming, the Pine Ridge team is planning to implement the practice in 60 to 100 acres of replantings on a wide variety of sites in Napa, Avina said.

“Right now, we have three vineyards that are set up for retirement,” he said. “And my thinking is, in the next eight years, we are planning to replant most of our vineyards, and the idea is that they will be dry farmed.”

The company has a total of 160 acres. “That is not so many,” Avina said, “but we have 10 different sites from Carneros to Howell Mountain. And eventually all those will be set up for dry farming.”

Mostero calculated dry farming on 100 acres could save 10 million gallons of water a year.
• 10 gallons per vine
• 1,000 vines/acre
• 100 acres
• = 10 million gallons of water

Assumptions:
• 1 irrigation = approximately 10 gallons per vine
• 10 irrigations per season
• At a density of 1,000 vines per acre, 1 irrigation = 10,000 gallons per acre
• 1 irrigation on 100 acres = 1 million gallons
• 10 irrigations per season = 10 million gallons

Grgich Hills Believes in the Economic Benefits of Regenerative Organic

By
W. Blake Gray | Contributing Writer
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Mike Grgich (left), who passed in December 2023, founded Grgich Hills in 1977 in a partnership with coffee magnate Austin Hills. It is now run by daughter Violet (middle), president/CEO, and his nephew, Vice President and Winemaker Ivo Jeramaz (right) (all photos courtesy Grgich Hills.)

Vignerons often worry if organic viticulture will cost more. Will there be lower yields, reducing profits?

Advocates for regenerative organic viticulture generally make the case for it by talking about the planet, and about health. How we need to absorb more carbon in the soil. How spraying chemicals can have long-term health implications.

But let’s be honest: In early days, it’s easy to confuse regenerative organic with its main advocates at the Patagonia clothing company (effective, concerned about the outdoors, but priced beyond the means of the everyday worker).

Grgich Hills Vice President and Winemaker Ivo Jeramaz rejects this idea. He is a true believer; he will not feed conventionally grown produce to his family. But he also believes that in the long run, regenerative organic viticulture makes sound economic sense. This combination of advocacy and practicality fits right in with Grgich Hills’ history.

Roots
Grgich Hills was founded in 1977 in the wake of one of the most famous contests in wine history. Mike Grgich was the winemaker for Chateau Montelena, and he made the Chardonnay that won the Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976. But Grgich chafed at working for others and wanted his own winery. He formed a partnership with coffee magnate Austin Hills (many people think the winery name is geographic, but it’s not), and a new winery was born.

Grgich was originally from Croatia and had escaped the Communist regime in Yugoslavia. He learned much from his early experiences: Work ethic and thriftiness were at the top of the list. And land ownership, as Grgich saved his pennies to buy up Napa Valley vineyard land when it was still affordable.

He often said, “Every day, do your best, learn something new, and make a friend.”

Grgich brought his nephew Jeramaz, an engineer, over from Croatia in 1986. He put Jeramaz to work right away, starting as a cellar rat. Jeramaz worked hard in the family tradition and gradually took over more winemaking and viticulture responsibilities. It was largely Jeramaz’s idea to move Grgich Hills into organic farming, but Grgich was an easy sell as he always cared most about grape quality. Jeramaz pushed the envelope further by making Grgich Hills one of the first premium Napa Valley wineries to convert to biodynamics.

Grgich Hills is indeed a premium winery. Grgich, being European, was a train fan and an early advocate of the Napa Valley Wine Train. Grgich Hills is its only winery stop, meaning Grgich Hills is the face of Napa Valley for many visitors. The winery owns more than 360 acres of Napa Valley vineyards, including 81 in the valuable American Viticultural Areas of Yountville and Rutherford. Still arguably best known for Chardonnay, it makes a range of varietals now, including one of the county’s best Zinfandels, which Grgich would have proudly told you is a grape from his native Croatia where he also opened a winery in 1996 that is still making Plavac mali (Zinfandel) today.

Grgich lived 100 years, showing the virtues of hard work, clean living and wine drinking before passing in December 2023. He had already passed on control of the winery some years before; his only child, daughter Violet, runs the business end, and Ivo runs the winemaking and viticulture side.

Grgich Hills is Regenerative Organic Certified, which combines organic principles with regenerative practices and focuses on soil regeneration, carbon sequestration, water conservation and fair labor practices.

Business End of Regenerative Organic
Ivo is all in on regenerative organic, and in an interview for Grape & Wine, he explained it not in terms of what it does for the soil, but what it does for the business end.

“Let’s start off in numbers,” Jeramaz said. “Our accountant accounts for 140 wineries in Napa Valley. Every year, he gets our financial books ready. They create a scorecard and compare us to the average of those wineries. For the 2023 growing season, the average farming cost for those 140 clients [is] $15,000 per one acre. Our costs were $11,000. Multiply by 360 acres.”

And Jeramaz said Grgich Hills does not have to replant as often as other wineries because its vines are healthier.

“Regenerative organic for us is more profitable,” Jeramaz said. “So many of these new owners are losing $5 million a year because they made billions somewhere else. Losses in the wine business are offsetting their business. In our case, we need to make money, not lose money. It’s more profitable because we’re not buying anything. We don’t even have to buy compost.”

Instead, Jeramaz brings a flock of sheep into the vineyard twice a year to eat cover crop and convert it on the spot into fertilizer.

“Now we are trying to plant the cover crops where grass only grows 18 inches,” Jeramaz said. “If the cover crop doesn’t grow up into the grapes, we don’t care what it is. The rows are protected from excessive heat. Our costs are about $140 per acre to deal with grass around grapevines. It’s a fraction of other people. They use Roundup two or three times, and they till two or three times. All to keep other plants from using nutrients and water. That’s not natural. They are spending money on this, and then they have to use fertilizer because they don’t have enough nutrients in the soil.”

Jeramaz said he monitors the amount of soil organic matter (SOM) since going regenerative organic, and his vineyards have shown an average increase of 0.9%.

“If you research scientific papers, you will find out scientists think it is not possible to increase SOM. That’s only true when you use fertilizers,” Jeramaz said.

A key concept of regenerative organic is to not till the soil to allow microbial life to flourish.

“We spend less because we eliminate these things,” Jeramaz said. “In the U.S., we spend over $100 billion on nitrogen fertilizer. In the air, in the sky, over every acre, there are 70 million pounds of nitrogen. Plants cannot just grab it, but microbes can. All you have to do is be kind to microbes. They grab it and make nitrogen available to plants. Why would you spend money on nitrogen when microbes can do it for free?

“These are not fairy tales,” Jeramaz continued. “This is the way farming has worked for thousands of years. We are not inventing anything. In summer, all this aboveground cover crop gets dry. We mow it, and soil is protected. On a 90-degree [F] day, the neighbor’s vineyard which is clean is 145 degrees in soil. You kill all microbes that way. You lose moisture in soil.

Winemaker Ivo Jeramaz said Grgich Hills does not have to replant as often as other wineries because its regenerative organic vines are healthier, just one reason this method can be profitable.

“In 2022, September 4 to 5, we had the temperature of 118 degrees in Yountville and Rutherford for a couple days and over 108 for almost the whole week,” Jeramaz said. “People who tilled lost a lot of grapes because it was 175-degree soil. Hot air was rising and cooking their grapes. Some people had nothing but seeds and skins, and it was completely burned. Any time you see adversity like that, we have a savings because our vineyard is far more resilient. If there’s a 7-inch downpour, it doesn’t matter to us because our vineyard can absorb it. Our soil holds water. In California, there is a huge shortage of water. Pretty soon, the government will start putting meters on wells. You won’t be able to just pump whatever you want. It’s very important to be able to catch all that rain when it falls. If you till soil as soon as you get rain, it cakes, and that water runs off. Maybe 70% of that water ends up in the Napa River.”

Winemaker Ivo Jeramaz said his regenerative organic vineyards continue to get decent crops even when infected by viruses like leaf roll and red blotch that cause other vignerons to replant, noting this way of farming creates “immunity.”

If that’s not enough financial benefit for you, consider this: Jeramaz said his regenerative organic vineyards continue to get decent crops even when infected by viruses like leaf roll and red blotch that cause other vignerons to replant. His vineyard in Yountville is 64 years old, making it one of the oldest in Napa Valley, and it’s planted with inefficient 10- by 8-foot spacing. Yet it yielded 3.2 tons/acre of Cabernet Sauvignon in 2023, which Jeramaz says was about 1 ton/acre more than the average Napa vineyard.

“Through this farming, you create immunity,” Jeramaz said. “Not that you kill viruses. You can’t kill viruses. UC Davis will never find a cure for viruses. The only hope is for resilient vineyards that can handle viruses. In Rutherford, about 20% of our vines have leaf roll. We pick them separately from clean plants. We pick clean plants at 25 brix and 24 for leaf roll. We have some malic acid, which is a measure of chemistry. Only difference is about a half degree of alcohol, and that’s OK because we don’t want high alcohol.

“I drive through Napa and see vineyards that are being pulled after eight years. I won’t name names,” Jeramaz continued. “If you have to replant 20% of your plants every year, you won’t survive. You have to replant your vineyard every five years, you’re dead. [Regenerative organic], this is the only way to survive.”

Of Worms and Wine: Low-Tech Vermifiltration Systems Tap Red Wigglers to Treat Wastewater

By
Vicky Boyd | Contributing Writer
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Peltier Winery and Vineyards near Acampo, California, installed a 3,000-square-foot worm bed in 2017 to address odor issues from its aeration pond. The worms have since become a source of pride for the operation (photo courtesy BioFiltro.)

For years, Peltier Winery and Vineyards near Acampo, California, relied on an aeration pond to treat wastewater coming from its operation. At times, odors emanating from the pond weren’t compatible with the nearby tasting room.

After learning about the BioFiltro Biodynamic Aerobic, or BIDA, system at the Unified Wine Symposium, winery owner Rodney Schatz thought long and hard before pulling the trigger in 2017 to have one installed on his winery. The patented vermifiltration process harnesses worms and beneficial microbes to remove biochemical oxygen demand (BOD), total suspended solids (TSS) and total nitrogen from wastewater.

Since Peltier installed the system, the odors have all but disappeared, the system proved simple to operate, and the worms have become a source of pride shown off during Earth Day and other events.

“It’s my favorite thing to talk about; what do worms have to do with wine?” said Faryn Schatz, Peltier marketing manager, whose father installed the system. “Farmers are very practical people, and they’ll only do something that will actually work. This does work. It saves money on energy, it doesn’t smell as bad as the wastewater pond and the water is cleaner in four hours compared to two weeks. It works, just as simple as that.”

Verimifiltration is relatively low-tech and involves applying wastewater to the top of the worm bed. The water filters through 3 to 4 feet of substrate, where worms and beneficial microbes clean it up (photo by V. Boyd.)

The worm-based systems have caught the attention of other wineries as well as other food processors and food waste handlers. During a recent industry tour of Peltier Winery, Bogle Family Vineyards Assistant Winemaker Mckensie Smith was asking questions and taking notes. Although the Clarksburg-based winery has currently put expansion on hold, she said she was doing research for potential long-term growth.

“Bogle trumps ourselves as being as sustainable as we can,” Smith said. “We’re always willing to trial new things at Bogle.”

Worms Catching On
To date, Davis-based BioFiltro has completed more than 30 vermifiltration systems with additional ones under construction in the United States, said Sarah Haupt, sales engineer. Most are at wineries, although several large Western dairy installations are currently in the works.

Rated for peak flows of 10,000 gallons per day, the 3,000-square-foot Peltier Winery installation is considered midsized. Similar to package wastewater treatment plants, BioFiltro has self-contained systems built using 20-foot-long shipping containers for boutique wineries and other small operations.

On the other end of the spectrum are larger systems. In 2016, Fetzer Vineyards in Hopland was the first winery to install a BioFiltro BIDA system. With a 100,000-gallon-per-day peak capacity, it comprises 21,000 square feet of worm beds. And a 5-acre system at O’Neill Vintners & Distillers in Parlier is designed to handle up to 1 million gallons of wastewater per day.

In addition to being a winery with the associated winery wastewater, O’Neill also is a distiller. With that process comes additional BOD and TSS from cooking and distilling the grain base, Haupt said.

In a one-pass system like Peltier uses, the vermifiltration system removes 80% or more BOD and TSS and 50% or more total nitrogen, Haupt said. Because the Acampo operation already had a pond, it uses it for final polishing of the treated water before applying it to vineyards for irrigation.

BioFiltro Sales Engineer Sarah Haupt shows off a shovelful of worms during a recent tour of Peltier Winery and Vineyard’s treatment bed (photo by V. Boyd.)

In Napa and Sonoma counties, on the other hand, she said wineries may use a double-pass system because the water is going directly into the drip irrigation system. There, the outflow from the worm beds is recirculated for additional treatment, which altogether removes 90% to 95% BOD and TSS.

Customized Systems
Although each system is designed and engineered specifically for an individual operation, Haupt said they all follow some basic concepts. Each project is sized to handle peak wastewater production.

Once the appropriate-sized area is excavated, an impermeable liner is installed along with concrete walls. Then comes a layer of pallets, screening, a layer of gravel, more screening and then 3 to 4 feet of biomass, whether wood chips, other low-value woody material or corn stover. The design allows for passive oxygenation of the system.

Red wiggler worms, which prefer compost and high-organic matter environments, do the work along with beneficial microbes (photo by V. Boyd.)

At Peltier Winery, wastewater flows from floor drains and through a screen or another type of filter to remove large particulate matter before moving into an equalization tank. There, buffers are added to reduce the typically acidic winery wastewater to a pH of about 6.5.

Over the years, Haupt said, they found beneficial microbes in the worm beds will raise up the pH from 6.5 to a neutral 7.0.

From there, the buffered wastewater will move to a holding pit or tank for eventual application. The system is low-energy, since most of it is gravity-fed, she said. This compares to aeration ponds, which are more energy-intensive because they need to be agitated around the clock.

Fetzer in Hopland, Calif. was the first winery to install a worm bed to treat its winery wastewater (photo courtesy BioFiltro.)

A programmable logic controller, or PLC, automatically turns off and on the sprinkler system. Proper moisture levels are key, and the system typically irrigates about once every 30 minutes.

With food processors that only run a few months out of the year, Haupt said they recommend continuing to irrigate during the off season to keep the worms going.

Although they won’t have as much food, she said the worms compensate with reduced reproduction.

Once the filter substrate is established, the system is inoculated with worms from a similar nearby system.

BioFiltro uses Eisenia andrei, a red wiggler species closely related to the common vermicomposting worm, E. fetida. Both are epigeic, meaning they prefer compost, leaf litter or manure-related environments to mineral soils.

BioFiltro technicians help owners get the system running and stabilized, which takes about three months. Then the company offers several maintenance and operation options. System owners can take over the system themselves or they can pay the company to do it.

“If the client wants to take over operations, then they can,” Haupt said. “You don’t need high tech. Peltier does it 100% themselves.”

Sprinklers apply winery wastewater over the top of a worm bed. In about four hours, the water will have percolated through and flowed out the bottom with significantly fewer total suspended solids and less biological oxygen demand and nitrogen (photo courtesy BioFiltro.)

Low-Tech Maintenance
Depending on the amount of water being treated, maintenance typically involves tilling the top layer of the worm beds roughly monthly to break up any crust or solids that may have formed.

Because of the smaller size, Peltier has a worker complete the task. But larger operations have developed automatic tilling systems that run up and down the worm beds.

Haupt said she also encourages system owners to routinely check for clogged sprinkler heads or sensors that might need recalibration.

Every two to three years, owners need to replace the filter beds as the organic substrate has decomposed past its useful life. To do this, she said, they first set aside a portion of the material that includes worms for eventual re-inoculation. Think of it like saving starter culture for sourdough bread.

Using an earth excavator, the owner digs out the remaining substrate material, which can be used as vermicompost for on-field application or sold. In Peltier’s case, they apply it to their vineyards to enhance soil organic matter.

Once the new 3- to 4-foot filter bed has been installed, the material is inoculated with the saved worm cultures and the process begins anew about three to four weeks later. In wineries and other seasonal food processors, this is typically done in the offseason.

Academic Scientists and Jackson Family Wines Collaborate in Pioneering Regenerative Viticulture Study

By
Pam Strayer | Contributing Writer
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Nall Inshan Moonilall of the Lazcano lab at UC Davis demonstrated the effects of water retention on bare soils compared to regenerative soil management at a recent field day looking at the impact of regenerative viticulture practices (photo by P. Strayer.)

Winegrowers got a first look at the goals and practices involved in a major, pioneering, government-funded study of regenerative viticulture practices at a field day on June 21 at La Crema winery’s Windsor vineyard. UC Davis scientists and Jackson Family Wines viticulture managers presented the event, in which UC and other scientists are studying the impact of regenerative practices, such as no-till, compost, cover crops and more, applied in various combinations.

Principal Investigator Dr. Cristina Lazcano, associate professor in the UC Davis Dept. of Land, Air and Water Resources, said the study is novel because it’s looking at the synergies various regenerative viticulture practices provide when used in different combinations.

The study is funded by both public and private sources. USDA funded Foundation for Food and Agriculture $1 million, which was matched with a $1.5 million contribution by Jackson Family Wines. Additional funding came from CDFA’s specialty crop block grant. The project pairs an impressive group of scientists from UC and other institutions with the extensive vineyard holdings of Jackson Family Wines (the company is said to have 14,000 acres of vines.)

The word “regenerative agriculture” is defined by the project as “a toolkit of principles/practices to restore and preserve biodiversity and soil health by creating a functional ecosystem that reduces external inputs while producing nourishing farm products.”

Principles include keeping soil covered, minimizing soil disturbance, keeping continuously living plants/roots in the soil, optimizing biodiversity, integrating livestock and using carbon-based amendments. The study also includes a cost analysis.

The study will look at six unique combinations of treatments on 12 sites, situated on a variety of soil types and in varied climates, Lazcano said. At the end of five years, the researchers will measure the impact of the practices on soil microbial health.

“Honestly, as a researcher, it is a dream to be able to do this,” said Lazcano, “to try to understand the soil and climatic drivers of the effects of the practices. We’re going to be able to understand how a certain soil type has a different response from a different soil type and how these practices work in different climates.

“This has implications for how farmers are going to use the resources if they need more water, if they have more or less water, etc. The scale of the project is unique.”

The project is also novel in the way the researchers look at the practices, ”which is in a very comprehensive way,” Lazcano said. “Doing carbon analysis in the soil was the main reason why we started this, but then it has expanded. So now we are looking at water retention, and then water infiltration, nitrogen cycling in the soil. We’re looking at effects in the vines. So, the quality of the grapes, the yield, we’re looking at the economics. And we’re also doing the fermentation of the wines for the experiment.”

The study will do the same experiments in 12 different locations across the West Coast, she said, from trials on Jackson vineyards in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, where it is colder and rainier, to Sonoma, Monterey and Santa Barbara.

About 25 participants (plus scientists and Jackson staff) attended the half day event.

Axel Herrara, a postdoc at UC Davis in Lazcano’s lab, kicked off the sessions with an economic analysis from four Sonoma sites, showing little difference between conventional and regeneratively farmed sites in terms of profitability. Both had average life expectancies of 19 years. The annual operational cost between the two farming systems was less than $100 per acre.

Nall Inshan Moonilall, another postdoc researcher in the Lazcano lab, demonstrated the effects of water retention on bare soils compared to regenerative soil management, with the latter method increasing water filtration and preventing soil erosion and runoff.

Scarlett and Hector Viramontes integrate Dorper sheep into their vineyard management business. The South African breed does not feed on grapes, making management with electric fencing in vineyard rows feasible and practical. Breeding Dorpers is also far more profitable than raising meat sheep, they said.

Jan Sotomayor of Jackson Family Wines demonstrated the company’s industrial-sized compost equipment.

The event ended with a panel discussion of scientists and Jackson staff.

Said Scott Welch, director of farming for Jackson Family in Sonoma, Lake and Mendocino counties, “We just recently had a winegrowing summit that included all our winegrowing regions, from Oregon down to Santa Barbara, to talk about wine and vineyard production and the lofty goals we have for 2030. How do we approach that? Because we’ve made a fairly large claim talking about, you know, 100% of our vineyard acres using regenerative farming. And the big thing we found was changing the regenerative farming to more regenerative farming practices.

“Composting, multi-tillage, and cover crops were the three big buckets,” he said. “We’re doing those, and so the idea now is, ‘Okay, how do we continuously improve and build off that?’

“What we’re learning at events like we’ve had today, is how do we refine things… mowing used to be completely wiping out the row of existing vegetation,” Welch continued. “But now that we’re learning about keeping weeds alive, keeping roots established… there’s lots of areas where we’re going 12 to 16 inches off the ground, so trying to maintain green cover for an additional month, or two months, or however long that is.

“Another example would be with cover crops; rather than just using whatever’s available at Wilbur Ellis, it’s figuring out what suits your system,” he said. “In areas that are frost-prone, you might not have nitrogen fixing things because you’re going to mow it down early. And if it’s a drought year, those cover crops aren’t going to mature and really do enough for you to be worth the cost of the inputs.

“I think it’s taking a step back and doing the regenerative practices we’ve always done, but just modify them, refine them, so that we’re really pulling out the most from those practices,” he said.

NGRA Partners with USDA-ARS to Launch New Grape Research

By
Donnell Brown | President, National Grape Research Alliance
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NGRA Partners with USDA-ARS to Launch New Grape Research

Have you ever wondered how research gets started? Or how researchers know which issues to tackle that will make the biggest difference to industry? One way is through direct engagement with industry stakeholders.

One of the most effective ways the National Grape Research Alliance (NGRA) advances the research needs of the grape and wine industry is through our close working relationship with USDA-ARS. ARS is USDA’s in-house scientific agency. It employs about 2,000 scientists in research units across the nation. Of its $1.7 billion budget (FY23), ARS commits roughly $25 million to grape research, often with input from NGRA stakeholders.
NGRA is a nonprofit membership organization that seeks to catalyze research that benefits all sectors and regions of the American grape and wine industry, spanning wine, table grapes, juice and raisins nationwide. We connect industry, academic scientists and state and federal research agencies (like ARS) to initiate novel research projects and programs to solve industry challenges. Since our founding in 2005, we’ve been instrumental in securing $65 million in funding for scientific solutions to grape and wine industry issues.

NGRA Research Chair and Gallo VP of Winemaking Research Nick Dokoozlian addresses attendees at the ARS Grape Industry Workshop (photo by Tim Rinehart.)

To ARS, NGRA serves as a unified industry voice to help guide the effective application of its scientific resources in support of grape research. Since 2005, NGRA and ARS have co-produced a Grape Industry Workshop every two to five years, in alignment with the five-year cycle for the agency’s research programs. And our last one, held last fall, was our most impactful yet. It went beyond the usual conference proceedings to actually launch new research.

On Nov. 7-8, 2023, at the USDA’s National Agricultural Library in Beltsville, Md., 30 members of NGRA, representing all grape sectors and regions of the U.S., gathered with 50 ARS scientists (many among ARS’ most decorated) and senior leaders, including Administrator Simon Liu and Under Secretary for Research, Education and Economics Chavonda Jacobs-Young, who is also USDA’s chief scientist. Representatives from other federal research funding agencies, including the National Science Foundation and Foundation for Food and Agriculture Research, attended, too.

On the first of a two-day agenda, NGRA Research Chair Nick Dokoozlian presented NGRA’s research themes and priorities, which were updated earlier in 2023. Then ARS scientists presented their research programs, arranged in sessions based on NGRA’s research theme areas: genetics and grapevine improvement, integrated production systems, natural resources and environment, plus several emerging industry hot topics like spotted lanternfly. While most of the talks centered on viticulture, some provided insights from other agricultural sciences, such as corn genetics, tomato breeding, climate and soil science, AI and pheromone-based detection methods for the commercial table egg industry, that could hold some relevance to grape-related issues.

ARS National Program Leader for Specialty Crops Tim Rinehart and National Grape Research Alliance President Donnell Brown. One of the most effective ways the National Grape Research Alliance advances the research needs of the grape and wine industry is through its close working relationship with USDA-ARS (photo by Jessica Youngblood.)

A brainstorming exercise on Day Two broke attendees into breakout groups to identify, based on the Day One download, priority research that ARS could lead or support. By day’s end, the three most compelling project concepts were selected to receive NGRA Research Fund planning grants. These funds will enable project participants, including scientific collaborators and industry advisors, to hold an in-person planning meeting to hone concepts into highly relevant, outcomes-focused research project proposals. The winning project concepts and their related NGRA research theme areas were:

  • Natural Resources and Environment
    Climate Change Mitigation & Adaptation: A Predictive Analysis for the Grape and Wine Industry
  • Integrated Production Systems
    Mealybug Detection and Mating Disruption 2.0
  • Genetics and Grapevine Improvement
    The Genetics of Production Efficiency

In the months since the ARS Workshop, all three project teams have met continuously to refine the research. In addition to helping to target the projects to relevant grant programs for funding, we’ve been working to develop laser-focused objectives and deliverables, identify and invite scientific collaborators including from other land-grant universities and other research institutions across the country, and build in robust extension activities to ensure the results reach industry stakeholders. Our goal is to have each project polished to grant-application perfection by the end of 2024 (assuming the right funding opportunities fit that timeline).
We’re proud of our close association with USDA-ARS and thankful for their continued engagement in our joint Grape Industry Workshop. The relationship-building and research exchange achieved there are always invaluable. But this year, with the launch of new, needed research coming as a tangible result, it was a workshop to remember. It was an exciting two days, and we (and grape and wine industry at large) will be reaping the rewards for years to come.
Donnell Brown has served as President of the National Grape Research Alliance since 2017. Learn more about NGRA at graperesearch.org.

Top 5 Takeaways from the 2024 Sustainability Summit

By
Pam Strayer | Contributing Writer
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One takeaway from the Sustainability Summit was the use of vermiculture in vineyards to improve soil health. Here, KG Vineyards Co-Owner and Sustainability Director Madelyn Kolber’s son, Judah, holds worms from their soils (photo by P. Strayer.)

Several hundred wine producers came together April 30 and May 1, 2024 for a broad-ranging, two-day conference in Lodi for the third Sustainability Summit sponsored by Wine Institute’s California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance (CSWA). Day 1 was devoted to field trips showcasing on-farm practices at two California Green Medal-winning sites, who are part of Lodi Rules (a stricter set of practices than CSWA), while Day 2 presented a series of speakers and panels from major wine-growing regions, including New York, Washington, Oregon and California.

Experts shared their recommendations on how to cultivate resilience with consumers, government and nature.

KG Vineyards also uses sheep to fertilize and mow its vineyards (photo by P. Strayer.)

1. Boost Wine Industry’s Appeal with Sustainable Practices
As wine sales decline and consumers drink less alcohol overall (across beer and spirits as well as wine), Robert P. Koch, Wine Institute’s president and CEO, told the audience wine is going on a new communications initiative to combat anti-alcohol trends and said showcasing the wine industry’s commitment to sustainability is a plus.
“It promotes positive public relations to help ensure a halo effect for wine,” he said. “By focusing on sustainable winegrowing and working together, we can build resiliency while adding to a compelling story to share with
the world.”

2. Tell Consumers Specifics About Your Wine and Sustainability Practices
Along the same lines, Liz Thach, MW, President, Wine Market Council, and former Sonoma State University professor of wine business, told wineries to let consumers know more about specific sustainability actions and recommended seven action items for wineries to take.

Steps include calling out farming practices on your labeling and packaging, creating a special tab on your website to showcase sustainability and providing specific statistics on your progress toward sustainability (i.e., “70% of energy is powered by wind.”)
As the U.S. consumer demographic becomes more multicultural, she recommended hiring a more diverse workforce to reflect that increasing diversity. Proactively communicating high-level nutritional information (“no added sugar, 120 calories per serving”) helps, too, she said, as well as making at least one wine under 12% alcohol. A final tip: Offer sustainability tours at your winery.

3. Encourage Biodiversity
LangeTwins Winery and Vineyards in Acampo, Calif. farms more than 7,000 acres of vines. Aaron Lange, head of vineyard operations, brought visitors to see the company’s biodiversity initiative, which includes restoring a four-acre area near their tasting room into a habitat of pollinators in a partnership with pollinator experts Xerces Society.
The winery has also installed two miles of hedgerows of native species (coyote bush, quail brush sage, milkweed, toyon, redbud and salvia) around vineyard perimeters to increase biodiversity. They are also trying out the use of vermiculture to enhance soil health on a pilot project.

4. Put Worms to Work to Improve Soil Health
KG Vineyards Co-Owner and Sustainability Director Madelyn Kolber and her son Judah demonstrated the value they get from worms in their soil as Judah delivered a prepared talk and then showed wriggling worms to visitors. The worms improve soil health at low cost, they said.

Steven Ostoja, Ph.D., director of USDA’s California Climate Hub, warned climate warming will accelerate from an average of three heat events to 16 by mid-century and more than 29 a year by the end of the century, changing the way vines behave (slide courtesy S. Ostoja.)

The team also uses sheep to fertilize and mow its vineyards. They farm 2,000 acres.
At another station at KG’s The Camp, Charlie Hamilton, viticulture and operations manager, explained the various soil types visitors could see in a soil pit showing blue soils deep down below clay layers.

5. Get Ready for More Frequent Heat Events and Increased Pest Pressures
Steven Ostoja, Ph.D., director of USDA’s California Climate Hub, warned climate warming will accelerate from an average of three heat events to 16 by mid-century and more than 29 a year by the end of the century.

The increased heat is also expected to bring in new invasive species and increase insects’ reproduction rates.

Both of those factors will change the way plants behave, Ostoja said.
“This is the single most frightening dynamic to me… We lost 129 million trees in the 2012-16 drought to a bark beetle that was not even on the radar,” he said.

Even more worrying, Ostoja mentioned research by UC Merced’s Tapan Pathak, associate professor and a specialist in climate adaptation in agriculture, shows climate warming effects will turbocharge insect reproduction rates and invasions.

Ostoja suggested mitigating heat by planting trees in vineyards and irrigating in advance of heat events.

More research from Ostoja’s group is available on the USDA Climate hub website and in the USDA climate adaptation resources workbook on California specialty crops.

He also cited a new April 2024 paper, A variety-specific analysis of climate change effects on California winegrapes, authored by the USDA California Climate Hub and partners, with additional information and insights.

Resources
Climate change impacts and actionable strategies for mitigation (from Steven Ostoja, Ph.D.): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WzI54AkP6ey9ejh5yD4BaTP3FzPOUnEn/view?usp=sharing
USDA California Climate Hub: https://www.climatehubs.usda.gov/hubs/california
USDA Climate Adaptation Resources Workbook: https://www.climatehubs.usda.gov/hubs/california/topic/adaptation-resources-workbook-california-specialty-crops
Climate change effects by winegrape variety: https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00484-024-02684-8

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