Listen to the audio version of this article (generated by A.I.)

In the heart of San Miguel, Calif. lies a small, charming estate vineyard and winery where, at first glance, everything is as you’d expect. There’s a rustic winery, rows of grapevines and a serene pace of life. But spend a little time here, and you’ll realize there’s something delightfully unusual going on among the vines.

Rather than the whir of tractors or the hiss of sprayers, you’ll hear bleats, snorts and the occasional delighted squeal. That’s because Bon Niche Cellars has found a unique way to tackle one of agriculture’s most persistent problems: weeds.

Weeds are more than just an unsightly nuisance. In agricultural settings, they can cause significant harm. Weeds can reduce crop yields by competing for essential resources like water, nutrients and sunlight. Some weeds even emit chemicals that inhibit the growth of neighboring plants.

Herbicides and heavy machinery are common tools for managing weeds. While effective, these methods often require significant investment in equipment. Purchasing, maintaining and fueling large machines can be especially burdensome for smaller operations. For Melani Harding, the goal was to find a more holistic approach.

A New Start at Bon Niche
When Harding bought Bon Niche Cellars in 2018, the vineyard was already well established. It was planted in 2009 and had been farmed conventionally since then. But Harding had a different vision. She wanted to move away from chemical inputs and toward a regenerative, sustainable model that prioritizes soil health, biodiversity and long-term resilience.

One of Harding’s first decisions was also one of her boldest: going herbicide-free.

She knew this wouldn’t be easy, but she wasn’t expecting the magnitude of challenge her first herbicide-free year had in store. Heavy rains fueled an absolute explosion of weeds.

“By my first summer, the weeds were winning over my efforts,” Harding said. It was clear that if she wanted to manage them naturally, she’d need reinforcements.

Enter the Goats
Her research led her to a potential solution: goats. More specifically, a few mischievous Nigerian Dwarf kids she adopted to help control star thistle, an invasive and stubborn weed common in the area.

The goats eagerly munched on the thistle and other tough, dry weeds that most animals wouldn’t touch. But there was a hitch; they roamed freely, enthusiastically and sometimes destructively.

They were curious about everything from budding vines to rose bushes and trees. To solve this, Harding and her father built what they dubbed the “goat tractor,” a mobile enclosure that allowed the goats to be moved around the vineyard safely. This way, the goats could snack on weeds without compromising the grapevines.

Eventually, Harding fenced off the vineyard to give the goats a safe place to roam outside of the vineyard while the vines were vulnerable, such as during budding and fruiting. Between harvest and bud break, however, the goats were allowed back into the vineyard. The system worked well, but goats had one major limitation: They didn’t care for green grass.

The Sheep Solution
To tackle the greenery, Harding invited more four-legged friends to join the crew in the form of Babydoll sheep. These compact, woolly grazers were just the right size to roam between vineyard rows without damaging the vines (most of the time).

“They are just the right height to do my leafing for me,” Harding said. “But that also means they can reach the fruit.”

Like the goats, the sheep had to be removed at bud break to prevent them from nibbling on the tender new shoots. Once the vines lignified and hardened, they were all welcome to return.

Meet Gilbert
Even with goats and sheep, Harding felt there was a gap in her weed management strategy. Then one day in 2021 while scrolling Craigslist, she saw a four-month-old Kunekune pig named Gilbert.

“This breed had been on my radar as they are considered ‘small’ pigs and graze instead of rooting,” Harding said. “I fell in love with the little guy, and he joined the farm that fall.”

Gilbert fit right in with the Bon Niche crew, so much so that Harding has since added three more Kunekune pigs. Because of their small size and grazing habits, they could stay in the vineyard when the goats and sheep had to be locked out. Best of all, they couldn’t reach the fruit, at least not at first.

“I consider anything they can reach to be fair game, but they are really smart. Last fall, I caught them grabbing low-hanging shoots and shaking the fruit free,” Harding said. “I ended up keeping them in their pen until we finished harvesting.”

Working in Harmony
It didn’t take long for Harding to get all the animals on a schedule that met their needs, hers and the vineyard’s.

Goats and sheep are let out in the morning during their designated seasons and return to their pens before dark. Pigs have access to the vineyard all year but must stay in their shelter at night. And Harding knows exactly who prefers to eat what:
• Goats love dried-out weeds like star thistle. They dislike green grass and mustard (though they do enjoy using mustard plants as scratching posts) but will eat sagebrush and puncture vine while they’re green.

• Sheep prefer grass, clover and cover crops but lose interest once the plants seed or become prickly.

• Pigs? “They’ll eat just about anything,” Harding said. “But they really love mallow.”

This system, combined with no-till farming and applications of vermicompost tea, has enabled Harding to nearly eliminate spraying altogether and cut back drastically on mowing. “I love sipping on a glass of wine, watching my cute animals do all the work for me,” she said with a smile.

More Than Just Labor
Beyond their work on the property, the animals have become a favorite feature for guests.

Visitors can interact with the animals in thoughtful, guided ways:
• The goats are always the stars, and Harding even built a special gate just for children to pet them more easily. “They have such personalities and love attention,” Harding said.

• The sheep are more reserved, though a couple of bottle-fed lambs enjoy the company of Harding’s grandpa.

• The pigs will often trot up to the gate to greet visitors, especially if they suspect snacks are involved.

And let’s not forget the two mini-donkeys. While they don’t venture into the vineyard, they help keep grasses trimmed on the winery side of the property and love interacting with people.

Small-Scale Farm, Large-Scale Success
Bon Niche Cellars models how small-scale farms can succeed with sustainable, thoughtful practices rooted in creativity and care.

What started as one woman’s dream to farm differently has become a thriving ecosystem where animals, vines and humans work together in harmony. By leaning into regenerative practices and building a natural weed management system that works with the land, Harding has created a vineyard that produces beautiful wine and tells a beautiful story.